Mazatlan's 114th annual Carnaval got underway this week. It is held every year prior to Ash Wednesday and is billed as the third largest carnival of its kind in the world (after those held in Rio de Janeiro and New Orleans). Carnaval's parades, concerts, and cultural festivals attract thousands of visitors to this Mexican resort city popular among Canadian vacationers.
The theme of this year's celebration is "Fiesta of the Empires." Highlights of the 2012 Mazatlan International Carnaval schedule include the following events:
February 16th
·Coronation of the King of Joy – Olas Altas.
February 17th
·Coronation of the Queen of Floral Games – Teodoro Mariscal
Stadium.
·Live music and dancing on the streets - Olas Altas.
February 18th
·Coronation of the Queen of Carnaval – Teodoro Mariscal
Stadium.
·Burning of Bad Mood and the Naval Battle Festival of Lights
– Olas Altas.
February 19th
·First Carnaval parade – Fishermen’s monument.
February 20th
·Coronation of the Child Queen – Teodoro Mariscal Stadium.
February 21st
·Second Carnaval Parade – Fishermen’s monument.
Flights to Mazatlan are available through WestJet, Sunwing, Alaska Airlines and U.S. Airlines from several Canadian cities. Please visit www.gomazatlan.com for more information about Mazatlan and this year's Carnaval.
The recent murders of two Canadians in resort areas on Mexico's Pacific coast have once again raised questions about how safe the country is for Canadian tourists. While neither of these killings has been linked directly to the ongoing war among Mexico's powerful drug cartels, there can be no doubt that many Canadian snowbirds are thinking twice about visiting Mexico for fear of being swept up by the violence.
In an attempt to get some answers to the question of safety in Mexico, the CBC recently interviewed Walter McKay, a former Canadian police detective who is now a security consultant living in Mexico City. McKay has been keeping track of narco related violence in Mexico since 2006, and he maintains that Canadians who stick to tourist areas and stay away from the drug trade and other risky activities still have little to worry about. Included in the CBC interview is a useful list of some popular areas considered to be safe, not safe, and somewhere in between.
On a personal note, as someone has spent a lot of time in Mexico and who will continue to go there, I feel that much of the country remains secure for cautious and well informed travellers despite the daily grim reports. However, the current situation could deteriorate rapidly for Canadians if drug cartels start targeting foreign tourists and the Mexican tourism industry in general. But so far there is no real evidence of this happening (touch wood).
In my last post, I suggested that Mexico City is a rewarding destination and convenient starting point for Canadian travellers wishing to explore Mexico. However, the prospect of getting around this huge metropolis can be intimidating. The good news is that Mexico City's transportation systems have evolved dramatically in recent years. Despite its infamous congestion, La Capital is now not as difficult to explore as you might think.
Fortunately, many of Mexico City's most important sights are located in the Centro Histórico (Historical Centre), which is easily toured on foot. Much of the traffic in this area has been rerouted and some streets (notably Avenida Madero) have been turned into pedestrian walkways. There is also a new fleet of green and white eco-friendly pedicabs that ferry both tourists and locals through the downtown core.
The most popular way to navigate Mexico City is in one of its ubiquitous gold and maroon-coloured taxis. Fares are inexpensive and the drivers are experts at negotiating traffic jams. Guidebooks often advise travellers to telephone for a taxi rather than flag one down on the street due to the risk of being robbed by a "pirate" cabbie. Personally, I've never had any problems in this regard, but calling for a cab is definitely the right thing to do at night. It's also a good idea to ask the driver to see his or her official identification card before stepping into a taxi.
Often overlooked by tourists is Mexico City's efficient and extensive Metro (subway) system built by the Canadian company Bombardier. It is similar to the Métro in Montreal in that the trains run on rubber tires rather than on metal tracks. The main advantages of riding the subway are the incredibly low fares (3 pesos or about $0.25) and the fact that you zip along in relative comfort beneath the clogged streets. On the downside, there can be a lot of underground walking to do between stations when changing trains, and the Metro gets very crowded on some routes, especially during the morning and evening rush hours.
Mexico City's latest addition to its urban transportation scene is the Metrobús. The principal line of this new rapid transit system runs north-south along the entire length
of Avenida Insurgentes, which is said to be the longest urban avenue in
the world. There are also two secondary Metrobús lines crisscrossing the city (see below for link to a system map). The bright red articulated buses have their own dedicated lanes and stop at clean, modern stations where you pay the fare electronically with a rechargeable “smartcard.” At five
pesos (less than $0.50) per ride, it’s a real bargain.
In Mexico, all roads lead to — and from — Mexico City. This sprawling megalopolis of some 20 million souls is Mexico's principal cultural and transportation hub and a virtual microcosm of the entire country. In my opinion, you haven't really been to Mexico until you've experienced "La Capital." It may not be as easy to navigate as Moose Jaw, but pack a little patience along with your comfortable walking shoes and you should do just fine.
Fortunately, Mexico City is one of the most convenient gateways to "the real Mexico" for Canadian travelers who want to see more than the resort areas. Air Canada offers nonstop flights to Mexico City from Toronto and
Vancouver, with connections from other urban centres. Several other airlines including Continental and U.S. Airways have regular service to Mexico City via the U.S.
Once in Mexico City, you can fly or take a comfortable, state-of-the-art bus (some now even have Wi-Fi) to just about anywhere in the country. Mexico City has a large modern airport and four well-organized intercity bus stations serving the cardinal points of the compass: Terminal Oriente (East), Terminal Poniente (West), Terminal Norte (North), and Terminal Sur (South).
It is wise to purchase bus tickets and reserve seats at least one day in advance. This can be done either at the terminals themselves or through travel agents in Mexico City. You might also be able to book online, but this option isn't always reliable. Two bus companies that I've been very satisfied with over the years are ETN and Primera Plus.
Here is a slideshow of some of Mexico City's most best known landmarks. Move the cursor over the screen to view captions. Click on an individual image to see a larger version and for information on ordering prints or downloading.
It’s not surprising that one out of three visitors to
Mazatlán is Canadian. This popular resort on Mexico’s Pacific Coast offers
everything that escapees from our long winters crave: warm sunshine,
sandy beaches, good food, and a vibrant nightlife. It is also relatively easy to get to from most Canadian cities. To my mind, however,
what really makes Mazatlán stand out is its historical downtown filled with handsome
European architecture that dates back to the 19th century.
During
the past two decades, much of Mazatlán has been busy restoring its Centro Historico, and the area has come back to life as the city’s social and cultural
hub. Most of Mazatlán’s relatively compact downtown can be explored on
foot. But deciding what to see -- especially if you have limited time -- isn't always easy. Here is my list of the top ten places to visit
in Old Mazatlán:
1. Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepcíon
The twin spires and striking yellow facade of Old Maztalán’s 19th-century
cathedral tower over Parque Revolución, the city's park-like main plaza. High Moorish arches frame the cathedral's entrance, which leads to a cavernous interior with marble columns, sweeping arches, and baroque altars. Each of the building's stained-glass windows is decorated with the Star of David, something seldom seen in the Roman Catholic world. Perhaps best of all, the cathedral's cool and tranquil interior is an ideal spot to take refuge from the bustle of downtown streets.
2. Mercado Pino Suárez
Mazatlán’s principal market sprawls inside a Victorian
building said to have been modelled after the work of French architect Alfred
Eifel, who designed the Eifel Tower in Paris. This steel-framed structure
reportedly once served as a bullring. These days the matadors are nowhere to be seen, and the mercado contains a maze of stalls and shops selling handicrafts, clothing,
fruits and vegetables, fresh fish and just about anything else you might want to buy. Don’t miss the traditional Mexican eateries or comedores on the
market’s upper level.
3. Plazuela Machado
Plazuela Machado, a pretty Spanish-style square, has become the
social heart of Old Mazatlán. Comely nineteenth-century buildings flanking
Plazuela Machado have been extensively restored. Many of them now house cozy
outdoor cafés and restaurants that are usually packed with revelers late into
the night. This shady plaza’s wrought iron benches are made for whiling away
the hours and for indulging in the sport of people watching.
4. Museo Casa Machado
This refurbished mansion next the Plazuela Machado was built
in 1846 by a wealthy Italian family. Its high-ceilinged rooms chock full of
antiques, artwork, period furniture, and elaborate costumes provide glimpses of what
life must have once been like among Mazatlán’s affluent classes. The mansion's long upper balcony catches cooling breezes and offers bird's-eye views of lively Plazuela Machado.
5. Teatro Angela Peralta
The Neoclassical Teatro Angela Peralta around the corner
from the Plazuela Machado is Mazatlán’s main cultural venue. Step inside this beautifully restored 19th-century opera house and you will be transported into an elegant world of
marble statues, rich woodwork, and sumptuous red velvet. In 1964, after almost one hundred tears of continuous use, the Teatro Angela Peralta was abandoned. The building eventually fell into virtual ruin and at one point was used as a parking garage. Reconstruction began during the late 1980's, and the theatre reopened in 1992. Today it once again plays host to concerts, dance troupes, and theatrical productions. Be sure to visit the second-floor gallery with its black and white photographs chronicling the theatre’s history.
6. Old Mazatlán’s Back Streets
Streets surrounding the Plazuela Machado, especially those
extending to the west, are lined with buildings reflecting a mélange of
architectural styles including Neoclassical, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco. Some have
been completely refurbished and painted bright colours, while others still
languish as romantic ruins. Art galleries, handicrafts stores, and clothing
boutiques have proliferated in this area, so bring along some cash or a credit
card.
7. Museo de Arqueológia
Mazatlán, whose name means “Land of the Deer” in the Aztec
language, has a complex history going back thousands of years. The city’s compact archaeology museum, which is situated in a restored building a few blocks southwest of the Plazuela Machado,
harbours collections of figurines, pottery, and other artifacts documenting the
region’s nomadic pre-Hispanic cultures.
8. Paseo Olas Altas
Mazatlán’s tourism industry blossomed during the 1950’s
along this wide boulevard skirting the western edge of Old Mazatlán. Faded
seaside hotels such as the Belmar and the Hotel Freeman evoke the romance of
that era. There are also a number of unpretentious seafood restaurants such as El Shrimp Bucket, which has being serving some of the best shrimp
dishes in town since 1963. Every evening, travellers and locals gather on
Olas Altas to bathe in the golden glow of the sun as it sinks into the waiting Pacific.
9. Punta de Clavadistas (Divers’ Point)
Just past the northern end of crescent-shaped Olas Altas Beach,
at the base of Ice Box Hill, young daredevils risk their necks diving from the top of a rocky promontory
into the roiling waters below. They must time each dive precisely
because the water is only deep enough to ensure their safety when a wave enters the narrow passageway
at the base of the cliff. Watching the divers glide into the blue with
their arms extended like wings can literally take your breath away.
10. Lookout Hill
(Cerro del Vigia)
Atop Lookout Hill, which anchors the southern tip of Olas
Altas Beach, stands a large cannon pointing out to sea. This lonely monument
commemorates the 1864 Battle of Mazatlán during which a courageous group of
Mazatlecos (as people from Mazatlan are often called) lugged a cannon up the
hill and then managed to repel an invading French warship called La Cordeliere.
The lookout and its airy restaurant have panoramic views of El Faro,
purported to be the second highest natural lighthouse in the world (after the
one at Gibraltar), and of the marina where Mazatlán's sport-fishing fleet ties up.
Move the cursor over the screen below to view captions. Click on individual images to see larger versions and for purchasing information.
This winter, Canadians heading down to Mazatlán in search of sun and sand can also explore this Mexican resort city's vibrant art scene. On the first Friday of every month up until May 2012, self-guided art walks will be offered in Mazatlan's Historical Center. There are 24 stops along the way including galleries, artists' studios, workshops, and gift boutiques. Balloons and banners mark the participating venues, and free maps are available around town. For more information, visit the Art Walk's official website.
Mazatlan's Historical Center or Centro Histórico is comprised of 180 city blocks of handsome 19th-century buildings, many of which have been lovingly restored. Action revolves around the Plazuela Machado, a pretty square ringed with lively outdoor restaurants and cafés. Culture aficionados can also take advantage of concerts held in the beautiful Teatro Angela Peralta or tour the nearby Museo Casa Machado, a restored mansion that gives glimpses of what life was like for Mazatlan's affluent class during the 1800's.
For additional information about Mazatlán, visit gomazatlan.com.
On December 21, 2012, the mysterious Maya Long Count calendar will complete a cycle of 5,125 years. Celebrations marking what some think is the beginning of a new age for mankind are planned throughout 2012 in the region known as the Mundo Maya (Maya World), which just happens to include Mexico`s Yucatán Peninsula.
This is good news for thousands of Canadians who visit the Mexican resort of Cancún and the Riviera Maya every winter. Not only will Canadian snowbirds be able to enjoy the area's pristine white sand beaches, but they shall also have the option of going on themed 2012 tours and attending other special events. Next year will also be an opportune time to explore some of the Yucatán Peninsula's important Maya archaeological sites such as Chichén Itzá, Cobá, and Uxmal.
Even though cultural and economic ties between Canada and Mexico get stronger with each passing year, most Canadians probably aren't aware that September 16th is Mexican Independence Day or Día de la Independencia. On this date, Mexicans commemorate the Grito de la Independencia or "Shout of Independence" that was given by parish priest Miguel Hidalgo in 1810 in the small town of Dolores (now known as Dolores Hidalgo). This call to arms inspired Mexicans to overthrow their Spanish overlords in a bloody War of Independence that resulted in Mexico gaining freedom from Spain in 1821.
The biggest celebration in the country takes place in Mexico City. At 11:00 PM on September 15th, the President of Mexico steps out onto the central balcony of the National Palace that flanks Mexico City's vast main square or Zócalo. There he rings the same church bell that Father Hidalgo reportedly used to summon people in Dolores to his cause over 200 years ago. The president then issues his own grito followed by enthusiastic cries of ¡Viva Mexico! from the noisy, flag-waving crowd below. This lively scene is mirrored in cities and towns throughout the republic, and the next day is a national holiday.
The Spanish colonial town of San Miguel de Allende north of Mexico City has long been a popular destination for Canadians. Besides being one of the most charming places in Mexico, San Miguel boasts a lively cultural scene as well as wonderful restaurants and hotels. The town's historical centre was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008.
I have been visiting San Miguel de Allende regularly since the 1980's. The town has grown by leaps and bounds over the years, but it remains one of my favourite spots in Mexico. I've put together a 2012 calendar with some of my recent photos of San Miguel. A preview of the calendar is embedded below. For optimum viewing, click on the Full Screen Mode icon at the bottom of the screen.
Travel Weekly has published a useful map entitled Traveler Safety in Mexico (see map below) that shows specific places in Mexico to avoid or exercise caution in because of possible drug-cartel violence. I can't vouch for the accuracy of the travel warnings given on this map. However, it's interesting to note that most of the reported hot spots are in northern Mexico and on or near the Pacific coast, with the exclusion of tourist areas such as Puerto Vallarta, Ixtapa, and Cabo San Lucas. Regions to the east and south of Mexico City -- Puebla, Veracruz, Oaxaca, Chiapas, the Yucatán Peninsula, etc. -- are all presumed to be safe.
With all the gruesome news about drug cartel violence, Canadians are increasingly afraid to visit Mexico. Something to remember, though, is that Mexico is a very big country, and most of the current trouble occurs in specific areas. Personally, I still feel as secure in most parts of Mexico as I do in Canada. Here is an enlightening video that puts the safety issue into perspective.
This photo shows the main plaza and 18th-century Iglesia San José in the four-hundred-year-old Spanish colonial mining town of Copala. Located in the foothills of the Sierra Madre about 80 kilometers (50 miles) east of Mazatlan, Copala is a tranquil town with cobblestone streets and restored colonial buildings. It makes an easy day or overnight trip from Mazatlan and offers beach-goers a glimpse of life in rural Mexico. Copala has several restaurants and hotels catering to visitors.
Click on the image to see a larger version and for information on ordering prints or downloading for personal or editorial use.
Air Canada has announced that beginning in November 2010, the airline will be offering daily nonstop flights from Vancouver and Montreal to Mexico City. There will also be increased service from Toronto to Mexico City. These moves are no doubt a result of the recent bankruptcy of Mexicana Airlines, which used to offer similar service from Vancouver and Montreal. Visit the Air Canada websitefor more information.
The Pacific coast resort of Puerto Vallarta has long been a popular winter destination among Canadians. For many of us, Puerto Vallarta was the place where we got our first taste of Mexico. My initial visit in the early 1980's led to a 25-year-long addiction to exploring Mexico.
As part of recent campaigns to promote Puerto Vallarta, the local tourism board has revised its official website. The site now has a downloadable travel planner, news updates, plus other information for tourists. It's worth checking out if you're planning to vacation in PV.
It is not always possible to exchange Canadian dollars for pesos outside major tourist areas in Mexico, so I always advise Canadians to take mostly US funds with them. Consequently, a recent announcement by the Mexican government about modifications to the exchange rules for US dollars could affect Canadian travellers.
As of September 14, 2010, foreigners are not allowed to exchange more than US$1500 cash per month into pesos. Fortunately, this limit does not apply to purchases and ATM withdrawals made with credit and debit cards. This may seem like an odd move for Mexico to make given that the country relies so heavily on tourism. But the purpose behind it is to limit the number of US dollars entering the Mexican banking system.
So make sure to take credit and debit cards along on your next trip to Mexico. Also ensure that your PIN numbers are made up of four digits. ATM's in Mexico will not accept PIN numbers with more than four digits. It's also wise to avoid using letters in your PIN numbers as they will make transactions more cumbersome.
N.B. As yet there is no mention of whether or not traveller's cheques will be considered to be a form of cash. I will update this post when I have that information.
This is a new feature. Each month, I will be posting a favuorite photo taken on my travels in Mexico. This one was shot during a recent trip to the city of Puebla, which is famous for the brightly coloured Talavera tiles that adorn many of its elegant Spanish colonial buildings. Puebla's historical centre has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are frequent first-class and deluxe buses to Puebla from Mexico City's eastern bus terminal (TAPO) and from the international airport. The trip takes about two hours.
Click on the image to see a larger version and for information on ordering prints or downloading for personal or editorial use.
UPDATE TO MY EARLIER POST ABOUT MEXICANA AIRLINES SUSPENDING FLIGHTS TO CANADA
Grupo Mexicana has now officially suspended all flights on its three airlines: Mexicana Airlines, MexicanaClick and MexicanaLink. Canadians holding tickets can apply for refunds on the Mexicana website. Updated news is also available through Twitter.
Continental Airlines, which I flew on recently to Mexico City, has extensive service to Mexico from several Canadian cities. Their in-flight service is not nearly as enjoyable as Mexicana's was, but Continental offers some very good fares, especially if you book flights at least one month in advance. And of course Air Canada and WestJet still fly to Mexico. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that Mexicana will be able to sort out its financial problems and resume service to Canada.
As of March 1, 2010, Canadians will need a valid passport to enter Mexico. Travellers without passports will be returned to Canada. These new passport rules are said to be a security measure rather than a response by Mexico to last year's decision by the Canadian government to impose a visa requirement on Mexicans visiting Canada. This controversial move, which was aimed at stemming the tide of Mexicans staying on illegally in Canada, has resulted in a sharp drop in the number of Mexican tourists vacationing in Canada.
In response to the World Health Organization recently raising the H1N1 influenza virus or "swine flu" alert from level 5 to level 6 (pandemic status), the Mexico Tourism Board has posted comprehensive updates on its website. In addition to information about what the Mexican government is doing to curb the spread of the disease, there are links to frequently asked questions about H1N1 and to travel tips. Currently there are no travel restrictions in effect on Mexico, and the flu situation is under control according to Mexico's Minister of Health.
