Mexico 4 Canadians

In Mexico, all roads lead to — and from — Mexico City. This sprawling megalopolis of some 20 million souls is Mexico's principal cultural and transportation hub and a virtual microcosm of the entire country. In my opinion, you haven't really been to Mexico until you've experienced "La Capital." It may not be as easy to navigate as Moose Jaw, but pack a little patience along with your comfortable walking shoes and you should do just fine.

Fortunately, Mexico City is one of the most convenient gateways to "the real Mexico" for Canadian travelers who want to see more than the resort areas. Air Canada offers nonstop flights to Mexico City from Toronto and Vancouver, with connections from other urban centres. Several other airlines including Continental and U.S. Airways have regular service to Mexico City via the U.S.

Once in Mexico City, you can fly or take a comfortable, state-of-the-art bus (some now even have Wi-Fi) to just about anywhere in the country. Mexico City has a large modern airport and four well-organized intercity bus stations serving the cardinal points of the compass: Terminal Oriente (East), Terminal Poniente (West), Terminal Norte (North), and Terminal Sur (South).

It is wise to purchase bus tickets and reserve seats at least one day in advance. This can be done either at the terminals themselves or through travel agents in Mexico City. You might also be able to book online, but this option isn't always reliable. Two bus companies that I've been very satisfied with over the years are ETN and Primera Plus.

Here is a slideshow of some of Mexico City's most best known landmarks. Move the cursor over the screen to view captions. Click on an individual image to see a larger version and for information on ordering prints or downloading.

Mexico City Landmarks - Images by John Mitchell

Read some of my suggestions on how best to get around Mexico City.

It’s not surprising that one out of three visitors to Mazatlán is Canadian. This popular resort on Mexico’s Pacific Coast offers everything that escapees from our long winters crave: warm sunshine, sandy beaches, good food, and a vibrant nightlife. It is also relatively easy to get to from most Canadian cities. To my mind, however, what really makes Mazatlán stand out is its historical downtown filled with handsome European architecture that dates back to the 19th century.

During the past two decades, much of Mazatlán has been busy restoring its Centro Historico, and the area has come back to life as the city’s social and cultural hub. Most of Mazatlán’s relatively compact downtown can be explored on foot. But deciding what to see -- especially if you have limited time -- isn't always easy. Here is my list of the top ten places to visit in Old Mazatlán:

1. Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepcíon

The twin spires and striking yellow facade of Old Maztalán’s 19th-century cathedral tower over Parque Revolución, the city's park-like main plaza. High Moorish arches frame the cathedral's entrance, which leads to a cavernous interior with marble columns, sweeping arches, and baroque altars. Each of the building's stained-glass windows is decorated with the Star of David, something seldom seen in the Roman Catholic world. Perhaps best of all, the cathedral's cool and tranquil interior is an ideal spot to take refuge from the bustle of downtown streets.

2. Mercado Pino Suárez

Mazatlán’s principal market sprawls inside a Victorian building said to have been modelled after the work of French architect Alfred Eifel, who designed the Eifel Tower in Paris. This steel-framed structure reportedly once served as a bullring. These days the matadors are nowhere to be seen, and the mercado contains a maze of stalls and shops selling handicrafts, clothing, fruits and vegetables, fresh fish and just about anything else you might want to buy. Don’t miss the traditional Mexican eateries or comedores on the market’s upper level.

3. Plazuela Machado

Plazuela Machado, a pretty Spanish-style square, has become the social heart of Old Mazatlán. Comely nineteenth-century buildings flanking Plazuela Machado have been extensively restored. Many of them now house cozy outdoor cafés and restaurants that are usually packed with revelers late into the night. This shady plaza’s wrought iron benches are made for whiling away the hours and for indulging in the sport of people watching.

4. Museo Casa Machado

This refurbished mansion next the Plazuela Machado was built in 1846 by a wealthy Italian family. Its high-ceilinged rooms chock full of antiques, artwork, period furniture, and elaborate costumes provide glimpses of what life must have once been like among Mazatlán’s affluent classes. The mansion's long upper balcony catches cooling breezes and offers bird's-eye views of lively Plazuela Machado.

5. Teatro Angela Peralta

The Neoclassical Teatro Angela Peralta around the corner from the Plazuela Machado is Mazatlán’s main cultural venue. Step inside this beautifully restored 19th-century opera house and you will be transported into an elegant world of marble statues, rich woodwork, and sumptuous red velvet. In 1964, after almost one hundred tears of continuous use, the Teatro Angela Peralta was abandoned. The building eventually fell into virtual ruin and at one point was used as a parking garage. Reconstruction began during the late 1980's, and the theatre reopened in 1992. Today it once again plays host to concerts, dance troupes, and theatrical productions. Be sure to visit the second-floor gallery with its black and white photographs chronicling the theatre’s history.

6. Old Mazatlán’s Back Streets

Streets surrounding the Plazuela Machado, especially those extending to the west, are lined with buildings reflecting a mélange of architectural styles including Neoclassical, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco. Some have been completely refurbished and painted bright colours, while others still languish as romantic ruins. Art galleries, handicrafts stores, and clothing boutiques have proliferated in this area, so bring along some cash or a credit card.

7. Museo de Arqueológia

Mazatlán, whose name means “Land of the Deer” in the Aztec language, has a complex history going back thousands of years. The city’s compact archaeology museum, which is situated in a restored building a few blocks southwest of the Plazuela Machado, harbours collections of figurines, pottery, and other artifacts documenting the region’s nomadic pre-Hispanic cultures.

8. Paseo Olas Altas

Mazatlán’s tourism industry blossomed during the 1950’s along this wide boulevard skirting the western edge of Old Mazatlán. Faded seaside hotels such as the Belmar and the Hotel Freeman evoke the romance of that era. There are also a number of unpretentious seafood restaurants such as El Shrimp Bucket, which has being serving some of the best shrimp dishes in town since 1963. Every evening, travellers and locals gather on Olas Altas to bathe in the golden glow of the sun as it sinks into the waiting Pacific.

9. Punta de Clavadistas (Divers’ Point)

Just past the northern end of crescent-shaped Olas Altas Beach, at the base of Ice Box Hill, young daredevils risk their necks diving from the top of a rocky promontory into the roiling waters below. They must time each dive precisely because the water is only deep enough to ensure their safety when a wave enters the narrow passageway at the base of the cliff. Watching the divers glide into the blue with their arms extended like wings can literally take your breath away.

10. Lookout Hill (Cerro del Vigia)

Atop Lookout Hill, which anchors the southern tip of Olas Altas Beach, stands a large cannon pointing out to sea. This lonely monument commemorates the 1864 Battle of Mazatlán during which a courageous group of Mazatlecos (as people from Mazatlan are often called) lugged a cannon up the hill and then managed to repel an invading French warship called La Cordeliere. The lookout and its airy restaurant have panoramic views of El Faro, purported to be the second highest natural lighthouse in the world (after the one at Gibraltar), and of the marina where Mazatlán's sport-fishing fleet ties up.

Move the cursor over the screen below to view captions. Click on individual images to see larger versions and for purchasing information.